
Bustles
can quite appropriately
be considered one of the oddest fashion trends in history. On a
parallel
with the pannier styles (wide hipped dresses) of the late-1700's, the
bustle
effect was created by a hoop which when place under a lady's dress
extended
the rear portion of the dress. Seen for only a short time, the
bustle
was popular from the early-1870's until the late-1880's. Although
a cumbersome fashion, the gowns created during this time managed to
appear
ladylike and elegant. Adhering to the customs of England's Queen
Victoria, ladies covered their ankles and wore high collars during the
day. As a balance to the strict code of etiquette as to dress
style,
colors were rich and stripes and floral prints were popular.
Color
and ornamentation compensated for the rigidity of style. The
color
mauve for example, discovered accidentally by an English dyemaker at
this
time, was an overnight success. Mauve was so frequently worn
that a newspaperman compared the multitude of mauve dresses he saw to a
measles outbreak. Depending on the use of the dress, it would be
trimmed in a wide variety of lace, ruffles, and even floral effects, or
a combination of all. In many ways, the perceived dowdiness of
Victorianism
is an illusion. The clothing of the time, while being very modest
and proper, made a mockery of conservatism through color and trimmings.
The gentlemen of the time
maintained
the "uniform" established in the previous decade of frock coat, vest,
and
trousers. The proper dress for business and evening, this would
remain
the appropriate dress of gentlemen into the early-1900's. The
1870's
did see change for the future of menswear, however. The sport
coat,
cut similarly to the modern single-breasted suit, appeared on the
market.
Intended mainly for hunting and other outdoor activities, the sport
coat
was made in tweeds and other hard wearing fabrics. As fashion
progressed
into the next period, however, the sport coat would make its way into
men's
everyday wardrobe.