Do I know what I want it to look like?

How often do I plan to wear my costume?  How often will it need to be cleaned?

In the realm of noble dresses, cleaning gets to be more complicated.  If you plan to wear the costume many times a year to a fair, you may consider making it out of washable fabrics and very importantly, wash the fabrics before you cut to avoid shrinkage.  If you are making the dress for a wedding, renewal of vows, or other special occasion, you can look into more delicate fabrics with limited cleaning options.

Do I need a hoop?

A noble woman, regardless of exact title, should be in a hoop.  Wearing a hoop with all of the accessories and expense required was a sign of wealth and importance.  Only the wealthiest of people could have afforded the amount of fabric required and the leisure required to wear a dress requiring a hoop.  There are exceptions to this rule.  A noble riding outfit could be worn with out a hoop, however there are other undergarments which would need to be worn in its place.

What about the bodice?

The bodice should be tightly fitted, well trimmed, and made of one or more expensive fabrics.  It will usually fasten in the back and may lace on the sides for additional sizing options, although in Elizabethan designs it may button in the front.  Typically speaking, the noble woman's bodice will not lace in the front.  The shape is pretty standardized with the majority of the changes being made in the height of the neckline, and treatment of the sleeves and waistline.

What color scheme do I want?

In a noble dress, colors are much less restricted.  Fabrics could include velvet, expensive brocades, woven cottons or other fabrics depending on the rank you wish to represent.  Any color is open to you, including black (though you may wish to avoid kelly green, the whore's color).  Purple is usually reserved for the queen of the festival, however, according to Tudor sumptuary laws the color could be worn by other high ranking nobles as well.  Sumptuary laws were passed to govern the fabrics, colors, and trims the citizens could wear.  The laws pleased the church and state as they gave definite boundaries to the opulence that lower nobles and merchants could display.  If you have chosen a specific character, researching the sumptuary laws could give you a better insight to the colors, fabrics, and trims open to a person of your rank.

A collar,

or a neckline.
 

Which sleeve?

The sleeve treatment will change the overall appearance of the bodice more that almost any other factor.  The important thing to consider in choosing a sleeve is weather.  The more material that is on your arm, the warmer the sleeve will be.  If you will wear your dress in the heat consider having detachable sleeves and wearing a chemise under your bodice.  Then as the temperature climbs you can remove the heavier sleeves and still keep your arms covered.  Consider making the sleeves (or even the whole chemise) out of a fancy but lightweight fabric,  In this manner you can keep the appearance of a noble and keep your cool at the same time.

What about a shoulder roll or epaulettes?

Shoulder rolls and epaulettes are an easy way to dress up a bodice without sleeves or make a dress with sleeves look more sumptuous.  If you are considering a dress with detachable sleeves, the epaulette or shoulder roll can maintain a noble appearing bodice without the extra sleeve layer.

What kind of trim?

The ultimate outcome of your garment can be determined by the trim you choose.  As a noble, gold and/or silver trim can be very appropriate, if not expected.  Trimming with pearls or other jewels is also very period and attractive.  If you have developed a character, you may be interested in complying with the sumptuary laws.  Complex and somewhat tedious, sumptuary laws governed the fabrics, threads, trims, and colors allowed for each rank within the gentry.

Do I want a zipper, buttons or laces?

For a majority of the Renaissance, the closure of choice was lacing.  In the later part of the Renaissance, women often had lacing panels which could be buttoned over to hide the lacing.  In this modern world of ours, there are methods of closing that can make getting dressed easier and quicker.  Although to be period accurate, one of the first two methods should be used, a zipper is faster and for many, more convenient than lacing or using buttons.  The ultimate decision must be made as to whether convenience or period accuracy will win out.

How many pieces?
Bodice with tabs or peplum, shoulder rolls, epaulettes, hanging sleeves.
bum roll, hoop, bloomers, petticoat.
overskirt, underskirt or a one piece.

Deciding the number of pieces and the undergarments you will wear will decide what level of noble you will be.  The extra pieces you put on your bodice, whether hanging sleeves or peplums, will influence not only the overall look of your outfit, but will help you decide whether you are a minor noble or next in line for the crown.  The undergarments you decide on are a very personal matter.  There are women who wear only the bare minimum, only a hoop, under their dresses while others wear a chemise, corset, bolster, hoop, petticoat, and bloomers.  The decision is yours.  Decide how many layers you will be comfortable in; perhaps rent or borrow a costume to evaluate the pieces you would like to have.

What kind of head covering?

Hats are a great way to express a different country.  From the French hood to the gabled headdress, hats are a wonderful way of expressing individuality.  They can also be a great way to hide short hair, show off long hair, or simply get your hair out of the way.

 What length of hem should I have?  I am getting married in this dress, how can I wear a train in the ceremony without ruining the hem?

Any faire attendant knows that the greatest enemy to a noble dress is dirt.  No matter how resilient the fabric, how carefully chosen the color, the earth will always win, but there are tricks that can save your dress.  Think about hemming the skirts of your dress three to four inches off the ground.  Remember that the ground at fairs is often uneven and typically rocky.  A shorter hem can save your cleaning bills and help you avoid a few embarrassing stumbles.  A Renaissance approach to saving hems was to put a matching band of fabric around the bottom of the hem which could be removed and replaced when it began to show signs of wear.  In the case of the train, consider having a removable train made.  The one in the picture below was made to be removed for the reception after the wedding.  The waistband simply unfastened and the train was removed.  The veil was also rigged to be shortened after the ceremony.

How much fabric will I need?

This is one of the few questions that is very hard to answer without a specific idea of the style of the dress you want.  Generally speaking, the following amounts can apply.  It is suggested that you have a preliminary meeting with one of our staff prior to purchasing fabrics.
NOTE:  All amounts are given assuming that the width of the fabric is 44/45 inches or wider.  It is always better to buy too much fabric than not enough.  Matching fabrics is difficult at best and impossible at worst.  These amounts do not apply for specialty styles.  Matching stripes and patterns may require more fabric.  Very small sizes and larger sizes may want to contact for recommendations.

Blouse (long sleeve): 2- 2½ yards
Bloomers (ankle length): 3 yards
Chemise (full length with long sleeves): 8-12 yards
Bolster (bum roll): ½ yard
Underskirt: 2 yards (60" wide) for front panel and 4-6 yards for side and back panels
Overskirt: 4 to 8 yards
Bodice (no sleeves or trimming): 1-1½ yards and same of lining
Peplums, shoulder rolls, tabs, epaulettes, etc.: 1 to 2 yards of face and lining
Sleeves: 1 to 5 yards (may require lining or other treatments)

How soon can I get the finished dress?

The typical time given for any building project is four to six weeks from the time we recieve your deposit and fabric.

How much is this going to cost?

Cost, again,  is one of the few questions that is very hard to answer without a specific idea of the style of the dress you want.  The cost can range from as little as $300.00 to more than $3,500.00. A final cost of $8,000.00 is not unheard of.  The difference is often made in the number of pieces you want, trimming and any hand work necessary.  After having your first meeting you will have a better idea of what the finished garment will cost.  It is helpful for you to come into the meeting with some idea of what you would like to spend.

Do I need to come in for a fitting?

Fittings are essential.  The only way to ensure the overall comfort and attractiveness of the garment is through fittings.  There are usually 2-5 fittings for a noble gown over the course of construction.

What else do I need to do to get my dress made?

You'll need to schedule to have a  preliminary meeting with us to talk about your outfit. This is where the decisions will start being made: what it will look like, what features it will have, basic color scheme, trimming ideas, fabrics needed.  The meeting is a first step.  After the preliminaries are discussed, you are free to do further research, look at additional pictures or movies. This is also the time to begin looking for fabrics and trims.  After fabrics are selected, a second meeting is scheduled.  In this meeting the definite plans for construction are determined.  By the second meeting you must know what you want.  This is the time that a final sketch may be done and measurements are taken.  The estimated building time is started from the time we receive fabrics.  After construction has begun, you will be called in for fittings.  The number of fittings can range between 2-5.

What should I do now?

The best place to start is with a little research.  With a base of knowledge to utilize, you will find the building process less intimidating.  After some initial research, schedule a meeting and begin.  Don't feel overwhelmed by this list of questions.  It seems like a lot of work only because it can be.  The best way to save time is to research.  Have some idea of what you're looking for before you go fabric shopping it will save time in the long run.

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