Do I have any pictures or drawings of what I want?

What type of doublet do I want?

In early Tudor England, during the reign of Henry VII, the tunic and surcoat were very popular.  Often lined in velvet or fur, the surcoat was great protection from the coldest of English weather.  In warmer climes the surcoat was worn without sleeves.  Henry VIII, one of England's most famous monarchs, continued to promote the coat over tunic style, although fashionable men in his court wore shorter coats (doublets) and knickers.  In Elizabeth I's rule, the padded doublet with the exaggerated peascod belly was popular.  Although we tend to classify time periods by the English monarchs, it was actually France that set the tone for fashion in the Renaissance until Elizabeth's reign.  After Elizabeth, the next prevalent fashion was the Cavalier period.  Following the styles of France, the world turned to shorter waisted doublets and knee boots.  The most recognizable of the people in the Cavalier period are the Three Musketeers.  Deciding which time period you wish to represent will be the easiest way to narrow the choices for your doublet.

This sleeve?

Do I have to wear tights?

Many men are intimidated by Renaissance costumes because they are so incredibly different from the dress of today.  Certain concessions can be made to modern tastes.  There are alternatives to tights.  If you are uncomfortable wearing them, opt for a longer pair of pants and knee boots.

What is a codpiece and do I have to wear one?

The origin of the codpiece lies in the early part of the Renaissance.  Men literally used to put their pants on one leg at a time, there was no connection through the crotch.  When the shorter doublet became more popular, the codpiece became the way to cover the crotch area.  Henry VIII brought codpieces into a new generation, making a three-sided codpiece that was large enough to extend from under his skirted tunic.  The size of codpieces grew until the church and state made regulations about the sizes allowed.  Although to be period correct a codpiece should be worn with most outfits, it is not required.  All pants can be made without codpieces and some can even be made removable.

What color scheme do I want?

In noble dress, colors are much less restricted.  Fabrics could include velvet, expensive brocades, woven cottons or other fabrics depending on the rank you wish to represent.  Any color is open to you, including black (though you may wish to avoid kelly green, the whore's color).  Purple is usually reserved for high royalty, though it is surprising the ranks that could wear purple as defined by the sumptuary laws.  Sumptuary laws were passed to govern the fabrics, colors, and trims citizens could wear.  The laws pleased the church and state as they gave definite boundaries to the opulence that lower nobles and merchants could display.  If you have chosen a specific character, researching the sumptuary laws could give you a better insight to the colors, fabrics, and trims open to a person of your rank.
 

Do I want a zipper, buttons or laces?

For a majority of the Renaissance, the closure of choice was buttoning.  In the later part of the Renaissance, men often had lacing panels which could be buttoned over to hide the lacing.  This made the peascod doublet fit properly.  In this modern world of ours, there are methods of closing that can make getting dressed easier and quicker.  Although to be period accurate, buttons should be used, a zipper is faster and for many, more convenient than lacing or using buttons.  The ultimate decision must be made as to whether convenience or period accuracy will win out.

What about a hat?

Hats are a wonderful way to express the country you wish to represent or simply top off a costume properly.  Depending upon your chosen time period, men predominantly wore one or two styles of hats.  The slop hat is a constant, being worn from Henry VII through Elizabeth's reign.  The blocked felt hats of Henry VII's reign became known as the Tudor hat.  In the years Elizabeth ruled, the hat of choice became the tall hat or sugarloaf hat, a kind of precursor to the top hat.  In the Cavalier period, the only hat to wear was the magnificently plumed Cavalier hat.

A pouch?

Surprising variety exists in your choice of pouches.  Whether a simple drawstring or an embroidered saddlebag, pouches are a necessity.  During the Renaissance, there were no pockets.  Man and women wore pouches to keep money and other important items nearby.

Belt?

After amassing any amount of gear, you will find a belt to be your greatest asset.  The only way to keep track of your pouches, mug, and sword or dirk is to keep them on a belt.  Good quality leather belts can be purchased at a variety of stores or at the faire itself.  Belts can also be special ordered with your costume at an additional cost.  For more information, contact us.

Footwear?

Many a wonderful costuming effect has been ruined by a poor choice in footwear.  Although many types of period shoes are expensive, there are cheaper alternatives.  Black, brown, or cream slip on canvas deck shoes can be used as can riding boots or even boottops.  Boottops are usually made of leather or vinyl and are worn over shoes to simulate the look of boots.

How much fabric will I need?

This is one of the few questions that is very hard to answer without a specific idea of the style of the dress you want.  Generally speaking, the following amounts can apply.  It is suggested that you have a preliminary meeting with one of our staff prior to purchasing fabrics.
NOTE:  All amounts are given assuming that the width of the fabric is 44/45 inches or wider.  It is always better to buy too much fabric than not enough.  Matching fabrics is difficult at best and impossible at worst.  These amounts do not apply for specialty styles.  Matching stripes and patterns may require more fabric.  Very small sizes and larger sizes may want to contact for recommendations.

Shirt (long sleeve): 2- 2½ yards
Tights (can be ordered): 2-4 yards of 2 way stretch material
Knickers (knee length): 3-4 yards
Pumpkin pants: 2 yards for lining and backing, 1 yard for straps
Doublet: 2½-4 yards, exact amounts of material will depend on design, 2½-4 yards of lining
Peplums, shoulder rolls, tabs, epaulettes, etc.: 1 to 2 yards of face and lining
Sleeves: 1 to 5 yards (may require lining or other treatments)
Boot Tops: 2 yards of vinyl or ultrasuede and 2 yards of backing OR 2 yards of leather

How soon can I get the finished outfit?

The typical time given for any building project is four to six weeks from the time we receive your deposit and fabric.

How much is this going to cost?

Cost, again,  is one of the few questions that is very hard to answer without a specific idea of the style of the costume you want.  The cost can range from as little as $300.00 to more than $3,500.00. A final cost of $8,000.00 is not unheard of.  The difference is often made in the number of pieces you want, trimming and any hand work necessary.  After having your first meeting you will have a better idea of what the finished garment will cost.  It is helpful for you to come into the meeting with some idea of what you would like to spend.

Do I need to come in for a fitting?

Fittings are essential.  The only way to ensure the overall comfort and attractiveness of the garment is through fittings.  There are usually 2-5 fittings for a noble costume over the course of construction.

What else do I need to do to get my outfit made?

You'll need to schedule to have a  preliminary meeting with us to talk about your outfit. This is where the decisions will start being made: what it will look like, what features it will have, basic color scheme, trimming ideas, fabrics needed.  The meeting is a first step.  After the preliminaries are discussed, you are free to do further research, look at additional pictures or movies. This is also the time to begin looking for fabrics and trims.  After fabrics are selected, a second meeting is scheduled.  In this meeting the definite plans for construction are determined.  By the second meeting you must know what you want.  This is the time that a final sketch may be done and measurements are taken.  The estimated building time is started from the time we receive fabrics.  After construction has begun, you will be called in for fittings.  The number of fittings can range between 2-5.

What should I do now?

The best place to start is with a little research.  With a base of knowledge to utilize, you will find the building process less intimidating.  After some initial research, schedule a meeting and begin.  Don't feel overwhelmed by this list of questions.  It seems like a lot of work only because it can be.  The best way to save time is to research.  Have some idea of what you're looking for before you go fabric shopping it will save time in the long run.

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